Designing with stretch fabrics

Loose fitting garments can accommodate a greater number of different bodyshapes but close fitting garments cannot. The assumption is that stretch garments will automatically stretch in the right places to give an acceptable fit and provide comfort as well as ease of movement. But this is a fundamental misunderstanding of stretch fabric characteristics and garment pattern geometry. To date the garment industry has focused on speeding up, through the use of CAD systems, empirical pattern construction methods which developed through custom and practice. This subjective approach has significant limitations, particularly when applied to stretch pattern design it is inappropriate for today’s technology. A brief overview of current pattern technology has been presented in this paper. The factors considered in developing stretch pattern technology include digitally quantifying the degree of fabric stretch and an objective approach for assessing stretch fit. The aim of the study is to make the process of stretch pattern construction more transparent in CAD applications for the designer/technician, fabric technologist and global manufacturer, and ultimately to offer better fitting and more comfortable garments for the customer.